J.W.ANDERSON (J.W. アンダーソン) 2010 S/S SEASON THEME
For his second season under the MAN umbrella Jonathan Anderson (the J in J.W. Anderson) has continued with his process of scooping up symbols of masculinity from around the world and reinterpreting them as contemporary, progressive menswear, jewellery and accessories.
Obsessive research projects on basketball uniforms, 1970s New York street culture, and tribal warriors have born slim, graphic, clearly defined proportions, with strong lines cut at set lengths to draw attention to the athletic physique. Intriguingly feminine touches appear in the form of long, dress-like tops, and shorts, jackets and coats in luxurious double woven silk, some of which fold down into bags, tempering their feminine fabrication with a nod to the great intrepid male travellers that are a perennial J. W. Anderson theme. These plays with elements of womenswear are about interrogating masculinity in a way that only real men can, rather than proposing that men take on drag: more Kurt Cobain in a frock than hot tranny mess.
Jewellery and accessories are based directly on Maasai war decorations. Cuffs, chest plates and tribal grass skirts are recreated in luxurious black, glossy, beads, combining the tough, warrior influence with the indulgence of painstaking hand beading. Shoes supplied by Repetto and re-worked add an extra layer of luxury.
The bomber jacket, which is fast becoming a J.W. Anderson trademark is back, in towelling and nylon and silk Antibes crepe, with bold, oversized J.W. Anderson logos. Tops are tight and body conscious in fine, Swiss cottons and Lycra, and trousers come in the form of technical leggings, sleek, narrow slacks, and loose, ethnic pants made from a women's pattern originally sent out with Vogue under Diana Vreeland's reign.
Prints and hand-painting based on the work of Irish painter Louis le Brocquy introduce a connection to Anderson's roots, and his avid interest in Irish cultural history. Le Brocquy's portraits of Turner are screen printed on T-shirts and tops and over-painted by hand in a collaboration with Windsor Newton.
J.W.ANDERSON (J.W.アンダーソン)
Designer
Jonathan William Anderson
Combining sinister phenomena with a love of mystical characters in history and literature, the intensely dramatic aesthetics of J. W. Anderson have made him one of the most intriguing menswear designers in current British fashion.
Born in Magherafelt, Northern Ireland in 1984, Jonathan William Anderson originally wanted to pursue a career in acting. In 2001, he moved to Washington DC to study drama at The Actors' Studio where he discovered a love for stage costumes. Anderson soon moved back to London where, whilst working as a stylist - most notably for the artist Rufus Wainwright - Anderson took his degree in menswear at the London College of Fashion. He graduated in 2001, at which point he had already established his label.
J. W. Anderson made it's debut at London Fashion Week in September 2007 with a menswear collection characterised by the use of real insects in jewellery. A dark, Rasputin-inspired autumn/winter 2008 collection soon followed, before Anderson made his breakthrough with the highly anticipated spring/summer 2009 collection, An Eye for An Eye.
J. W. Anderson will show his fourth menswear collection under NEWGEN at London Fashion Week in February 2010.
URL : http://www.j-w-anderson.com/
J.W.ANDERSON (J.W.アンダーソン)取り扱い店
LIBERTY (LONDON)
COCO DE MER (LOS ANGELES)
KABIRI (LONDON)
CONCENTO PARIS H.P.FRANCE (OSAKA)
KABIRIA AT SELFRIDGES&CO (LONDON)
CONCENTO PARIS H.P.FRANCE (TOKYO)
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