UTE PLOIER (ウテプロイアー) 2010 S/S SEASON THEME
『 Ute Ploier`s 8.5 』
The SS 2010 collection "Ute Ploier's 8.5" is a hommage to Italian director Frederico Fellini and
his all-time favourite actor Marcello Mastroianni.
In Fellini`s movies, Mastroianni is the impersonation of an ultimately chic anti-hero:
He may be a torn character but one with dignity and style.
The title of the collection is inspired by Fellini`s Movie "Otto e Mezzo " (eight and a half).
8½ is about the struggles involved in the creative process, both technical and personal, and the
problems artists face when expected to deliver something personal and profound with intense
public scrutiny, on a constricted schedule, while simultaneously having to deal with their own
personal relationships. It is, in a wider sense, about finding true personal happiness in a
difficult, fragmented life.
The collection is a reinterpretation of Mastroiannis wardrobe in 8 ½:
Wide pants and shorts with suspenders, slim trenchcoats, sharply cut striped blazers, elegant
yet casual shirts with rolled-up sleeves and neat cardigans.
Fragments of straw hats and white sun glasses complete the look.
The colour range is light and fresh yet slightly surreal, because of it`s strong black and white
contrasts and unusual colour combinations.
The prints refer to Fellini`s artistic atmosphere:
Collages of film stripes for accessoiries like scarfs or in a more abstract version as broken pin
stripes on trousers and jackets.
T-shirts feature a print inspired by the movie poster of 8 ½.
The collection`s lookbook was shot by Austrian photographer Mark Glassner with model
Gerhard Freidl.
Just like in Fellini`s movie, reality and phantasy mingle.
Perspectives in the photographs seem to be upside-down when taking a second glance.
However, all images are real-space shots and have not been altered in post-production.
UTE PLOIER (ウテ プロイアー)
Designer
Ute Ploier
Ute Ploier was born in Linz (Upper Austria) in 1976.
After spending one year in London attending fashion and graphic design classes at Central Saint Martins College she started her formal education in 1996 at the University of Applied Arts Department of Fashion Vienna.
Her teachers at university included Jean-Charles Castelbajac Viktor&Rolf and finally Raf Simons.
2001 Ute Ploier received the Fred-Adlmüller stipend and was invited to the Swiss Fashion event GWAND in Lucerne.
In 2002 she won the fashion award of the City of Vienna at the Austrian Fashion Awards with her diploma collection “Noli me tangere/Don't touch me”.
In 2003 she was awarded the renowned Prix Hommes for best menswear collection during the 18th installment of the French fashion and photography award in Hyères France.
Ploier is the first Austrian ever to win this award.
In 2005 Ute Ploier received the Unit F Award for International Press.
In November 2007 Ute Ploier was one of 6 finalists to present at the prestigious Swiss Textile Awards in Zurich.
Ute Ploier has successfully established her menswear label since 2003 based in Vienna / Austria.
January 2004 marked her debut in Paris.
Since then she has regularly shown 2 collections per year.
Ute Ploier is sold in selected stores in Europe USA and Japan.
Her creations reflect a critical view blended with humour on images and role models of masculinity today.
To turn around and newly adapt traditions is Ploier`s motivation and also what made her take up menswear :
“There are many male fashion designers who design for women. I wanted to reverse that and experience what it is like for a woman to design for the opposite sex;
to create from another point-of-view and outside the usual system.
Ute Ploier stands for a sharply cut chic clothes with smart and witty details.
It is equally important to her to make a man wearing her creations look and feel good.
This is why the touch and feel of fabrics play a vital part in the collection as well as carefully executed manufacturing.
URL : http://www.uteploier.com/
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