Hussein Chalayan （フセインチャラヤン）ファッションブランド 2011年秋冬レディースコレクション

Hussein Chalayan 2011 AUTUMN／WINTER WOMEN'S COLLECTION

Hussein Chalayan （フセインチャラヤン） 2011 AUTUMN／WINTER SEASON THEME

Kaikoku

For the Fall/ Winter 2011 collection Hussein Chalayan continues his examination of Japanese culture while exploring the DNA of previous Hussein Chalayan collections, expanding and refining past cuts and silhouettes of the house language. The collection is entitled Kaikoku or Kai ko ku in Japanese which means open country. After the period of isolation Sakoku in Japan, the country experienced an openness to Western culture which over the years has influenced the food, fashion, art, architecture and technology while the country has still remained distinctly Japanese. The collection focuses on this hybrid of cultures culminating with a special museum piece the Floating Dress made in collaboration with Swarovski.

Angled Sleeve
The overall mood of the collection is a relaxed austerity beginning with round-shouldered tailored coats over double-breasted jackets and cashmere or wool trousers. Trousers this season are flared, wide legged and slim cut, offered in wool and cashmere. The colours of the collection are navy, burgundy, gray, ivory and mushroom. Sleeves are cut generously on an angle on jackets, dresses, tops and jumpsuits. Dresses and jackets are matched with sharply tailored trousers that play contrast between Eastern graphics and Western structure.

Cutout
Navy wool dresses and tops are cut in classic lines, structured with graphic panels of Japanese mesh Komatsu overlay, creating a double silhouette. Austere, below the knee length, turtleneck dresses in stretch wool hug the body and have a surprise panel of sheer mesh opening in the back.

Shadow in Anticipation
The importance of the shadow in Japanese culture is further explored by the house in the FW11 collection by taking the abstract idea of all things meant to be seen and outwardly hidden in Japan like the Banraku puppeteers seen throughout the film moving panels the model comes out from and creating shadows. Shadows this season are used literally as a print. The shadow print is a prelude to Kaikoku and is seen on the Circle Dress, long tank dress and Scarfneck Mac.

Station Cocoon
The house's signature Station Pocket Coat returns this season in wool, devore and coated cotton with a button on the collar to wrap the wearer in, up around the neck, creating a protective silhouette like a cocoon. Coated cotton Macs and jackets have netting on the pockets reflecting the idea of shadow makers. Chunky Italian knits become structured outwear and cardi-coats with cozy generous volumes, cut out waistbands and cross-stitching which give knits a tailored feel.

Angled Felt
Felt tunics are cropped in back or front and felt dresses and coats are cut in classic boxy silhouettes with hidden panels of contrasting coloured felt inserts creating graphic volumes. Styled over chunky Italian knits the felt range comes in navy, gray and ivory.

Tailored Scarfneck
Suit jackets, overcoats and waistcoats in cashmere and wool come in Western gentleman's navy, burgundy or herringbone, double-breasted and signature long single button styles and seem to melt onto the body. Shoulders are square and sewn down padded, creating a sharper upper silhouette. Silk scarves are attached to collars of cashmere coats, jackets and waistcoats and float around the neck or are tucked in creating a hyper-lux alternative evening and outerwear. Signature Scarfneck dresses and asymmetric tops are draped around the neck and body creating a fluid silhouette. Devore and double-faced wool Scarfneck jackets and New Scarfneck dresses are tied below the waist and have the proportions of a re-structured dressing gown referencing a relaxed interior environment.

Mid-structure
Evening and cocktail dresses of bonded navy and mushroom silk and Komatsu are layered and draped as if frozen during moments of construction. Fabric is tucked into and out from bonded waistbands and bodices, panels of Japanese mesh change texture and colour over fabric or skin. Also offered in tear print, the house-made print refers to the literal tearing back the sheets of a wallpapered or posted wall and revealing its historical layers and texture.

Floating Dress
The Kaikoku collection culminates with the Swarovski Floating Dress. The idea evolved from the Spring/ Summer 2011 collection in which dresses and waistcoats were cut in curved silhouettes and floated on the body as if automated; the Floating Dress is automated. With automata in Japan the body can potentially start to float, it is free, as it doesn't have the restrictions of subjecting itself to daily chores.

Designed with 50 Swarovski Crystal "pollens", the dress is decorated preciously, juxtaposing the crystals together with pearled paper of the pollen that float in the air when released by the figure wearing the dress. The crystal pollens symbolize a new beginning, something that goes on to a further journey and pollinates ideas. The colours of the dress, gold, white and crystal are new ingredients of a delicate decoration almost like a Japanese jewelry box in the form of a dress.

The dress is made from polyester resin and fibre-glass matting. It is painted in a highly metallic gold paint. When light shines on it, the colour reflects between silver and gold and the colours of the crystals. The rear doors open and close by motorized hinges, allowing the wearer to step in or out of the dress; it also can be maneuvered on its own by a radio controlled digital hand set. "Swarovski is proud to support Hussein Chalayan on his Fall/Winter 2011 collection. Throughout our extensive history of collaborating with this visionary, we have marveled at his talent to bring together the worlds of fashion, art and technology- and this season is no exception. We are thrilled that crystal has been a pivotal ingredient in the creative process of making the final look, the Floating Dress, and look forward to many more exciting collaborations with this incredibly talented designer." Nadja Swarovski, VP International Communication & Creative Director

"With all our collaborations with Swarovski we've tried to create a new language which combines fashion, performance and design so that we can create something unique every time. The use of crystal in this project has been furthered by creating a pollen mechanism which makes crystal float in the air further challenging the boundaries of what we can do with crystal and giving it a life of its own."
Hussein Chalayan

In addition to being featured in the film made for the Kaikoku collection with the support of Swarovski, the Floating Dress will be on display from July 7th at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in the first major exhibition of Hussein Chalayan's fashion and art works in Paris, co-funded with the generous support of Swarovski.